pt

When hunger is gluttony

If hunger is a primary need, the pleasure caused by sugar is a luxury only explained by the excess of gluttony.

Jewelry lies between the useful object and the apparent uselessness of art and in this context, the jewel is the sugar we put upon the clothes we wear to add more flavor - to provide the useful of the luxury of beauty.

 

While a silver jewel is produced, garbage accumulates in the form of filings - a silver powder that resembles sand or refined sugar. If collected, it can be transformed back into silver possible to work in a sort of circular recycling. But why not integrate filings in jewelry? As if the garbage that luxury gives rise to could become the protagonist itself.

 

GULA, celebrating the joy of creating a beautiful object that can be worn, treats this silver filings as if they were sugar, integrating in one piece utilitarian recognizable forms and turning them into symbolic elements, decontextualized and out of scale, in a way to exalt its practical uselessness.

When worn, GULA warns about the dangers of giving in to the pure and simple pleasure, making the instrument to achieve it inaccessible - because if hunger is the symptom of a need, gluttony is perhaps a treat as necessary as the beauty that yearns to be contemplated.

 

GULA is a necklace composed of two pendants inspired in a cake on a doily and a spoon, in which the sugar is represented by the reuse of silver fillings.

The word gluttony derives from the Latin gula, which means esophagus, throat, gullet.

Interestingly, it is also the word for sugar in Indonesian.

 

GULA, REMADE IN PORTUGAL "IN-UTILITAS", EXHIBITION 2015

sterling silver, gold plating, silver filings, resin, freshwater pearls and nylon thread

There was an obvious intersection between the illustration and the language of my own work. I'm not used to using someone else's work as a starting point to create a piece of mine, but when this happens, it's inevitable to look at other's work in light of our own work - we end up seeing what we want to see.

 

I considered the user of the piece of jewelry as the main character of its own frame. As such, I decided to pick up the monocle that appears in the illustration Vision and simplify it a little more, deconstructing it into circles of different diameters (relating to my Orbital Collection) - as if the object had fallen to the ground and, dematerialized, were now mounted as a decorative abstract piece.

 

Another of the elements that caught my attention in the illustration was the silhouette of the smallest character that seems to be in danger - perhaps influenced by my background, I was reminded of the miniatures that are used in architectural models and couldn't resist to add it to the composition - this little one is also half lost and tries to somehow find his place within a structure whose size seems disproportionate and out of his control. Ultimately, it turns out to be the liaison between a piece of jewelry that could exist by itself and the illustration of Maria Herreros.

ANOTHER VISION, JEWELLERY MEETS ILLUSTRATION, EXHIBITION 2015

gold plated sterling silver, plastic miniature painted with enamel, metal chain

Some movies catch our attention from the beginning, others are waiting for the big finale to surprise us. Time passes by and when we look back it’s sometimes only a moment or a line that stays.

“Read me in the mirror” is a portable collection of phrases that linger in our memory and can now be transported to our body, engraved in what seems like film strips.

A different meaning to each of us, a reflection of them and ourselves.

READ ME IN THE MIRROR, JEWELRY AND CINEMA, EXHIBITION 2016

sterling silver

Inspired by the architecture of the lines, the levels of spaces, the direction of movements, which overlap and intersect in a continuous flow. Ana Pina’s ring reflects the geometry of the museum’s facade, but also, on a more poetic vision, the way it leans over the river’s bank and accompanies its rippling.

HORIZON LINE, EXCLUSIVE PIECE FOR MAAT, 2019

sterling silver

Absence recalls at the same time a void and the presence that filled it.

An organ, a limb, some body, a memory.

As a prothesis is custom-made to its owner so this piece was made - and in this particular case, it fits the hand that created it, to then be given away, in a symbolic cycle of gain and loss.

But a prothesis made to a healthy hand is in itself a contradiction: an element that is meant to be felt as strange, that instead of facilitate, disables the movement.

An element that is meant to stand out, like a jewelry piece - and as a jewelry piece, this pendant celebrates the rebirth: an inadequate element that only fits oneself becomes an adornment for someone else, as a symbol of our infinite capability of reborn, improve and turn the disadvantages into triumphs.

ABSENCE, PREZENTACJE 2019 - PROSTHESEUSES, 2019

sterling silver, silk yarn

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